Hot on the heels of Paris Haute Couture and four days of fashion shows comes the latest collections of high jewellery from many of the world’s top jewellery brands like Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati, Dior, Chanel, De Beers, Piaget, Chaumet, Messika, Louis Vuitton, Suzanne Syz, David Morris and more. It’s an exclusive event open only to clients and journalists and a great honour to attend. I hope you enjoy my curation of new jewellery discoveries from Paris Haute Couture.
Always so exciting to experience the world of CHANEL: from touring Chanel’s apartment to modelling for a special editorial dedicated to her love for camelia flowers, the legacy of Coco Chanel lives on in Chanel high jewellery. I cannot be happier than to be in Paris to learn more about the life and influence of this legendary woman and discover the latest high jewellery collection: Le Paris Russe De Chanel 2019.
If the Coromandel high jewelry collection of Paris Couture Week 2018 was dedicated to Coco’s favourite item of decor, this year’s Le Paris Russe De Chanel explores her fascination with the art, fashion and of course the people of Russia. The collection builds on Chanel’s encounters and friendships with notable Russian artists, ballet dancers, and choreographers, who brought the echoes of imperial Russia’s grandeur to Paris after it had lost its charm in the homeland.
“The Russians fascinate me” – Coco Chanel
Chanel’s passion and inspiration have always been inseparable. It was her brief but intense love affair with the Grand Duke Dmitri, the cousin of the last Russian Tsar, who introduced Gabrielle to many of his compatriots and sparked Chanel’s interest in motifs and designs of Imperial Russia.
Le Paris Russe De Chanel high jewelry collection illustrates the dreamy Russia of Chanel in 69 glittering creations. She has never visited my home country, but in her imagination it was a faraway land, where the splendour of the Imperial court blended with the pristine beauty of wheat fields and mystical stories from folklore.
I was surprised to discover Chanel’s appreciation for wheat, which she believed was a powerful symbol of luck and positive energy. After 1967 CHANEL Moscow runway show, her models came back with gifts of golden wheat sheaths, which Coco surrounded herself with in her apartment on Rue Cambon. I loved how this wheat motif runs beautifully throughout the designs of Le Paris Russe De Chanel collection. It made for a beautiful backdrop at the jewels presentation I attended in Paris.
I was instantly drawn to this beautiful kokoshnik inspired headdress, which can also be worn as a stunning collar necklace. The beautiful diamond camellia flower motif is a tribute to Chanel’s signature style, while the outline recalls the shape of the Russian headdress, traditionally adorned with pearls and trimming. It reminds me of the beautiful kokoshnik I once wore at a Christmas party.
One of the biggest highlights of my journey to Le Paris Russe De Chanel is the spectacular Sarafane necklace. Hand-decorated borders made from beads of white gold create captivating lines of subtle openwork. Inspired by the intricate embroidery and fine needlework of Russia, this necklace comes together in a beautiful camellia ornament set, featuring perfectly chick pearls and a mix of pear-shaped, brilliant cut and marquise cut diamonds. Shining bright at its centre, you’ll find a show-stopping 10.18 carat, internally flawless, round diamond. Perfectly placed to accentuate the neck dimple of some lucky wearer. So true to CHANEL style.
A contrasting take on Russian embroidery is expressed in the Folklore earrings and cuff bracelet with tsavorites, orange garnets, blue and pink sapphires, with diamonds and irresistible pearls. Set against a backdrop of deep red lacquer, the jewels celebrate Chanel’s favourite colour.
Just like Chanel’s own fashion designs mirrored Russian fabrics back in the 1920s, the jewels of Le Paris Russe De Chanel high jewellery collection echo Chanel’s dream of Russia. After Coco Chanel was introduced to the Grand Duke’s sister, the Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna, she was proud to help her set up an embroidery atelier for future CHANEL couture knits.
One of the most striking symbols represented in the high jewellery collection of Chanel, is the double-headed eagle of Imperial Russia. A reference to the ornate, gilt mirror in Mademoiselle Chanel’s Paris apartment, this Aigle Protecteur platinum necklace showcases a beautiful symmetry with breathtaking rows of briolette cut diamonds supported by two double-headed diamond eagles, resting over a shield of incredible diamonds.
I found the beautiful colour combinations of gemstones in the Blé Maria set of Le Paris Russe De Chanel high jewellery collection the most striking. Just look at this splendid medal brooch with a 28.82 carat oval-shaped yellow sapphire at its centre bursting out with pink spinels, sapphires, garnets, green tourmalines and diamonds in white and yellow gold. Kakaya krasota! (the Russian for “How beautiful!”)
My heart was pounding with delight as I strolled through the beautiful high jewellery presentation from Chanel. It was a moment of pure nostalgia for my homeland. Watch my IGTV to see all the beauty firsthand!
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Welcome to Paris! Day 1 was all about managing the heat and my heartbeat from rushing too fast, while discovering unique high jewellery creations of @worldofreza @chanelofficial @debeersofficial @rubeusmilano and @davidyurman! My absolute favourite of the day was CHANEL high jewellery presentation inspired by Russia! What was yours?
Thanks for stopping by! What is your favourite jewel from CHANEL Jewelry Le Paris Russe De Chanel 2019 high jewelry collection? Share with me in the comments below!
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GEMOLOGUE jewelry blog by Liza Urla is a celebration of fine, fashion and vintage jewellery featuring talented jewellery designers, trendy urban street style, exclusive interviews and rare jewellery reviews. This jewellery blog’s goal is to encourage and educate about jewellery online in a fresh and original fashion to inspire women and men across the globe in a fashion and travelling context.
Jewellery blogger, writer Liza Urla, the founder of GEMOLOGUE, is a London-based and NYC-educated gemologist, who has travelled to and lived in many countries. She is now one of the most influential digital jewellery tastemakers. Her jewellery influence has been acknowledged by Financial Times, The New York Times, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar.
*Photographed by Julia Flit. Styling and Art Direction by Liza Urla. All photos belong to GEM Kreatives for GEMOLOGUE. Material on this website may not be copied, broadcasted or adapted without written consent.
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