Oh, Sao Paulo, you never fail to amaze me! During my latest trip to Brazil, I was lucky to discover the world of Brazilian stones jewelry and sculptural designs of Carol Kauffmann in her Sao Paulo atelier. Overlooking the Itaim, the head-in-the-clouds workspace of this Brazilian jewelry designer is filled with light and sparkle!
Carol Kauffmann is a famous Brazilian jewelry artist and one of the most prominent names in the Brazilian fine jewelry scene: she has been designing jewelry for over 10 years after launching her very first collection at Bergdorf Goodman in NYC, the 5th Avenue heaven for fine jewelry lovers!
Discovering the beauty of Brazilian gems in masterful designs of @carolkauffmannjewellery! What is your favourite jewel from my visit? My jewellery visit to Carol Kauffmann’s Sao Paulo atelier offers an exclusive preview of her new “Valentin” collection as well as her signature pieces. Influenced by art and nature, Carol’s jewels feature the finest gemstones Brazil has to offer coming together in a dazzling array of playful geometric shapes and lust-worthy colours. Stay tuned for our interview – soon on GEMOLOGUE @LizaUrla #jewelleryface #gemologue @studioevertonbar
I am passionate about statement Brazilian jewelry brands and Carol Kauffmann ’s bold, vivid creations are right up my alley! Happy to introduce my GEM squad to this contemporary Brazilian jewelry designer and feature Carol Kauffmann’s new Jewelry “Valentin” collection on GEMOLOGUE!
What inspired you to become a jewelry designer?
Living here in Brazil with the availability of amazing colored gemstones and my Lebanese origins. We love jewelry, since the day we were born! It is a passion mixed with the accessibility to natural Brazilian gems, which put me on the way.
In what ways has your background in textiles influenced where you are now? How did you make the transition into jewelry?
The 13 years I spent in the textile business gave me the knowledge of how the production and development of the product in a factory happens, giving me the ability to create anything I want in the jewelry business.
When was your jewelry brand founded in Brazil? Your first collection was launched at the Bergdorf Goodman, did you ever envisage your jewelry brand to be as global and successful as it is today?
My first collection was launched in 2008, the same year I launched my collection at Bergdorf Goodman. I did not envision it, but Brazilian styles and gemstones were very well accepted on the international market, so Carol Kauffmann Jewellery was very successful since the start.
How would you describe your brand’s aesthetic, and how do you distinguish your designs from what is already on the fine jewelry market?
Carol Kauffmann’s design features precious 18k yellow gold and exceptional natural Brazilian gemstones. I always put together an artistic inspiration and try to make it look very casual for women to wear it every single day. I create designs that are timeless and are for a modern woman, who can wear them day-to-night for any occasion she wants to.
Where do you find your inspiration and influences?
Mainly art, it is one of my biggest source of inspiration. My family always collected art and now my daughter works with contemporary art. So we explored all the impressionists and the Brazilian modernism art towards the contemporary movements and new tendencies.
Your upcoming collection, Valentim, was inspired by your visit to Rubem Valentim Museum of Art exhibition in Sao Paulo. Can you tell us more about that?
Inspiration can come from many different sources including a beautiful sculpture book, a unique trip or an art exposition among others. My latest collection is called “Valentim” and it was inspired in the work of the important Brazilian artist Rubem Valentim. He puts together different geometric shapes and formats creating his own vocabulary of symbols. His work features Afro-Atlantic influences and a mixture of vivid colors.
Could you tell me more about the craftsmanship behind the Valentim Collection? How is the beautiful vivid color achieved in your jewelry?
My jewelry is handmade by exclusive craftsmen and goldsmiths giving it a personal and exclusive look, using a new resilient plating technique with nano-ceramic particles that I called “Colour Gold”. Just like the white rhodium, this technique allows me to use many different colors on the top of 18k yellow gold to give it a totally new look.
How have you gone about selecting Brazilian gemstones, metals, and settings for your collections over the past 10 years?
What is your design process between the inspiration and the finished piece?
You know how to make one color pop by pairing it with another and how to make more subtle pairings as well! How important is color, to your design process?
Since my times in the textile industry, I always worked with colors, at that time we were creating a bathing suit printing, where we could spot at least 20 different colors and shades. Because of that previous experience, I’m familiarised with mixing colors without restrictions, so when it comes to the jewelry business, it was very easy to mix and match different color combinations.
Who are some jewelry designers or artists that you admire?
I admire the work of artists like Lygia Clark and Alfredo Volpi of Brazil, American artists James Turrell, Ellsworth Kelly, and Dan Flavin as well as the Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama. As for the jewelry designers: vintage Cartier, Bulgari and, Van Cleef & Arpels and Brazilian fine jewelry designer Silvia Furmanovich.
What is your typical day as a Brazilian jewelry artist in Sao Paulo?
It is always fun to be in Sao Paulo. Even in your most busy days, you go for lunch with your friends, you stop for a cocktail at the end of the afternoon and in between, there is work with beautiful Brazilian stones. You always find some inspiration!
What are the challenges and advantages of being a Brazilian jewelry designer? For a brand like yours that values design and craft, was it difficult to find the right partners and workshop to make it scalable whilst preserving quality?
The biggest challenge of being a Brazilian jewelry designer is managing business with our economic situation, as our work involves a lot of people and high investments. In Brazil you have good and bad years to work, it is like a rollercoaster, but at the moment this is true for the rest of the world too. You just need to be prepared for these situations.
How is working in the jewelry industry different today from when you first started out over 10 years ago?
The consumers in the jewelry business have become more demanding in terms of quality, while at the same time expecting creativity. This new scenario pushes us, designers, to be better every single day.
What would you like to educate young jewelry consumers, who might be more into other objects of luxury, technology or traveling? Why jewelry should matter to them?
I would like these young consumers to value and appreciate our jewelry work as an artwork. If they could get more information about the styles and work of the designer, they would appreciate a piece of jewelry much more.
What role do you think social media plays in jewelry today?
Social media is the biggest and most assessable window to the world, so it has a very important role for jewelry brands. In my point of view, its influence on the world of jewelry will only increase in the future.
Thanks for stopping by! Let me know in comments, who are the best Brazilian jewelry designers in your opinion?
I am extremely happy to announce that my new jewelry book – GEMOLOGUE: Street Jewellery Styles & Styling Tips – is now on Amazon. I’m so excited. It’s the first book of its kind solely dedicated to jewelry.
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GEMOLOGUE jewelry blog by Liza Urla is a celebration of fine, fashion and vintage jewelry featuring talented jewelry designers, trendy urban street style, exclusive interviews, and rare jewelry reviews. This jewelry blog’s goal is to encourage and educate about jewelry online in a fresh and original fashion to inspire women and men across the globe in a fashion and traveling context.
Jewelry blogger, writer Liza Urla, the founder of GEMOLOGUE, is a London-based and NYC-educated gemologist, who has traveled to and lived in many countries. She is now one of the most influential digital jewelry tastemakers. Her jewelry influence has been acknowledged by Financial Times, The New York Times, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar.
*Photographed by Studio Everton Barros. Styling and Art Direction by Liza Urla. All photos belong to GEM Kreatives for GEMOLOGUE.
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The post, THE JEWELLERY ART OF CAROL KAUFFMANN, CONTEMPORARY BRAZILIAN JEWELLERY DESIGNER appeared first on Gemologue.